It's the last day of Antarctic excursions on our Antarctic cruise and our final chance to an encounter with whales. It is also time for one of the most interesting events on the calendar: the polar plunge, where guests have the option to jump into the freezing Antarctic water. So what is it like and were there any regrets?
I’m awake at 4:40 am where there is just dark stillness outside. I drink my coffee in silence and then wait for everything to wake up around me. For the first time during this Antarctic cruise I venture downstairs to breakfast. There’s a buffet with plenty of fruit, pastries and bread as well as hot dishes at the table there’s a menu for freshly made waffles pancakes and eggs made to order. I help myself to a croissant, some Jamon Iberico de Bellota and a crispy hash brown.
The announcement comes over the ship's PA system from the Atlas World Navigator ship's expedition leader Jonathan Zaccaria, "Good morning. The time is now 7:50am or 10 to 8...The outside temperature is 1 degree celsius or 34 degrees farenheit. We have extremely calm seas and no wind here at Fournier Bay and the sky is partly sunny." I'm sad that this will be our last good morning announcement; they've become such a part of my time here in Antarctica.
At 8:30 am, we are called down to the mudroom for our final excursion and we all climb into the zodiacs. “We are looking for whales,” says Jonathan raising his binoculars and looking around. Since we've seen such a range of wildlife including plenty of penguins, birds and seals they want to round off everyone's experiences with whale sightings. Each guide talks to each other and relays whale spottings. Earlier this morning, when they went out on the zodiac boats, they had seen 4 whales.
There are rules when approaching whales. You must stay within 400 metres of a sleeping whale and approach at a speed of not more than 5 knots. Boats are to approach the whales from a 4 or 8 o'clock position. Boats are never to approach a whale under 100 metres or 200 metres away, a mother and calf or a feeding whale. Whales feed near sea ice which is the frozen seawater that floats on the ocean surface in which krill (small crustaceans) use for shelter and to feed on the ice algae. Every year in September sea ice doubles in size and in summer it is at its lowest. Whales can eat around 1 tonne of krill a day and if this sea ice is threatened so is their food source. Antarctica is warming three times faster than the rest of the world and faster than modelling would indicate.
Another threat to whales are ship strikes that sever whale tails or give them unsurvivable injuries. A ship doesn't know if it has hit a whale and the numbers of ship strikes are estimated at thousands of whales a year. The mortality is reduced when ships travel at 10 knots which is considered the "golden speed". If they travel faster at 18 knots, the whale mortality rate for shipstrikes is 90%.
After we all arrive back on board it is time for an Antarctic cruise tradition: the polar plunge. This is where people wearing swimsuits, a harness and a rope attached to their waist jump into the Antarctic waters off the side of the boat. 111 out of 153 people on the ship have signed up for this. In each group they make their way in robes and slippers to the Atlas lounge and from there they will be called into the mud room.
They will do their own individual style of jumping off the steps into the water, some jump far, some jump, others deep like a bullet. Most faces register shock as soon as they hit the water. Once the shock of hitting that ice cold water sets in there’s a scramble to get back to the steps and get out of the water. Sometimes the cold freezes muscles and they stiffly take the few steps back to their robe. Others stay out there for a few seconds and float leisurely back. No two polar plunges are the same. I asked what some of my friends thought of their polar plunge as I did not do it.
Esther: I knew I was going to do it, even if I was scared. My fear was mostly moving through the motions of jumping into the open ocean. The cold wasn't much of a fear factor for me. I'm more fearful of meeting some whales or seals in the water. Before I do anything scary I validate my fears by saying no, knowing full well that I will do something or leaning more towards doing it than not. While in line the energy of those who have completed the plunge and those of us waiting to go was very exciting and an electric feeling knowing that it will be a rush.
During the plunge, I recall taking my time to jump but not recalling the feeling of being in the water. I remember wanting to come up fast because my gulp of air was running out and I knew I had plunged in deep. I didn't really try to swim up fast. My hands and feet felt the chill first once I came up for air. I think I opened my eyes because I wanted to see the ladder rail and climb up quick but I don't know if I maybe imagined it. The relief, cheer, and pride I felt for being so brave was my favorite part of coming out. Everyone is so positive and the safety guides made you feel comfortable. Jonathan wrapped me up in a fresh towel and I felt incredible. I don't even remember the cold. The mud room crew handed me a choice of tequila and the girls toasted to completing such a thrilling experience. I would 100% recommend anyone to do it scared. To jump in and abandon logic. The safety measures helped me to release that fear for myself. I hope I get to experience that again.
Desiree: I had a tiring kayak tour before the so called polar plunge. But since it was a once in lifetime opportunity there was no other options than going for it. After returning I hurried to put on a bikini and was the last one about to jump in the Antarctic waters. We had to have a safety belt around our hips with a leash attached to it. I jumped after the countdown without a second thought, probably for the best: the ice cold water was a shock and took my breath away. I had to remind myself to breathe deeply. Also my skin felt numb immediately. After managing to get out, I hurried to get a hot shower which gave me pins and needles, but also a refreshing and revitalizing feeling. An amazing feeling with the memory of multiple whale sightings while kayaking in the morning.
Ayana: Whitest shit I’ve ever done.
Jacqueline: Awesome experience, even for someone who is not adventurous. The polar plunge is the perfect end to your Antarctica adventure.
Kiran: I did it because it's a once in a lifetime opportunity but I was really scared when I jumped in. It was extremely cold when I jumped in and I really didn't enjoy it. I have never liked cold things, cold climate, cold water, cold showers, cold etc so for me it was not actually enjoyable. I'm glad I did it and got it over with but I would not do it again.
Tessa: I grew up in the desert, so I don’t like cold water. In fact, I don’t like anything cold except coffee and ice cream. So I’ve never done a polar plunge or an ice bath, nor had even an inkling of desire. But who goes all the way to the bottom of the Earth and skips out on jumping into the nearly-frozen ocean as Antarctic icebergs float by? Not even me, it turns out - even though the waiver I had to sign said the ship had no liability if I died.
I was nervous but determined, amped up from the excitement of watching and listening to a pack of vocal humpback whales grunting and snorting on my last Zodiac ride of the trip. I lined up in my robe and slippers and peeked out the window to watch people leap and cannon bomb into the sea with ropes tied around their waists. It was reassuring to see each person climb out of the water and immediately break into a grin as they speed walked toward a towel and a shot of liquor.
I nearly backed out when I was roped up on the platform shivering in the below-freezing air. And I suddenly wondered about all the wildlife that could be in the water beneath me. But it was that moment or literally never, so I counted to three and dove. I don’t remember anything about being in the water other than the shock of cold hitting my lungs, making me hold my breath. Within seconds of getting out, I felt more alive than possibly ever before. I even thought about asking if the crew would let me jump a second time. Instead, I wrapped myself back into a robe and cheers-ed my fellow travelers with a shot of vodka to celebrate our bravery.
Everyone returns to the restaurant with bright pink cheeks and excitement in the air. Everyone is famished and running a bit late so lunch goes on for a bit longer and features a buffet with sweet and sour pork and a range of vegetables. After this there are a range of stewardship talks. These are in addition to the guide talks by Atlas guides there are also talks from the Insider Expeditions speakers that focus on entrepreneurship and motivational speakers. The four speakers this afternoon are Peter Hillary, Wasfia Nazreen, Frances Valentine and Kaila Colbin. I’m very tired from the early rise, so I watch from my state room in-between naps.
Around 3.30 in the afternoon, I make my way down to the auditorium where we are getting a lecture from one of the guides Chris about the race to the South Pole between Robert Falcon Scott and Roald Amundsen. The two men designed vastly different itineraries to try and conquer and reach the South Pole – Scott with much fanfare, supplies and money behind him and Amundsen modestly equipped. While Scott perished during this expedition and Amundsen was the victor, Amundson was never fully recognised as Scott was deified after he passed. It continued to be a source of anguish for the Norwegian Amundsen while he was alive. Amundsen is now a recognised as one of the greatest adventurers of all time.
There are some more lectures and teatime downstairs before we adjourn to dinner. This evening, it’s a buffet again with delicious, freshly cooked garlic shrimp, as well as buffet items like spring rolls, potato salad and chow mein. There are always two soups on offer as well.
After dinner is a cruise tradition: the crew talent show. Everyone is relaxed now that their excursions are over and there are no early mornings left. We make our way to the Atlas lounge at 10 pm for the crew talent show hosted by cruise director Michael Shapiro. Crew members dance, sing and play instruments. Some are just having the best time of their lives while others seeing earnestly likes Swiss guide Susi, who is overcoming her fear of singing in public to belt out a wonderful version of Whitney Houston’s "I Have Nothing". There’s a raffle held with prizes from the gift shop like stuffed penguins, caps, mugs and keychains. The money raised is given to the crew.
And the last item for auction is a personalised recording of Jonathan's "Good Morning" message. They have auctioned off a good morning message for the past month. The record so far is over $3000USD for this message and on this evening it goes for $1100USD shared by two people.
So tell me Dear Reader, would you do the polar plunge or have you done it and what do you think of it?
NQN travelled to Antarctica as a guest of Qantas and Insider Expeditions but all opinions remain her own.
Insider Expeditions
https://insiderexpeditions.com/
Qantas
https://www.qantas.com/au/
Atlas Ocean Voyages
https://atlasoceanvoyages.com/antarctica
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