Zongzi are a delicious rice snack that are filled with a soft filling of shiitake mushroom and pork belly. The rice used in a zongzi is a glutinous sticky rice that holds the fillings in perfectly. They are usually served during the dragon boat festival which is celebrated on the fifth day of the fifth moon of the lunar calendar. This year it was June 20th and next year it will be June 9th, 2016. My grandmother made these for me every day after school for years but when she passed away, nobody learned how to roll these and the method was lost. Until one day!
You may have seen modified versions of the glutinous rice dumplings stuffed with pork at yum cha perhaps wrapped in lotus leaves and them steamed. The zongzi that I had after school were elaborately wrapped in bamboo leaves and strung up in the laundry with red and white twine once boiled. They were tummy fillers and stopped any post school hunger pangs before dinner.
The significance of zongzi is tied up in the legend of Chu Yuan, a scholar and poet during the time of 277 B.C. Despite being good and well respected, through the actions of jealous rivals Chu Yuan no longer held an esteemed position in the emperor's court and as a result, he threw himself into the river. The local people that lived alongside the river quickly rushed to their boats and threw rice into the river to appease the river dragons. After this bamboo leaves filled with cooked rice was thrown into the water so the fish can eat the rice instead of the poet. Now it has evolved into the custom of eating rice dumplings.
For a large part of when we were growing up, one of my grandmothers would live with us alternating with the rest of my parents' siblings. The first to come live with us was my mother's mother. She was rather terrifying although she had a very soft side to her. The difficulty came mostly in the fact that we couldn't understand her and when she said things she delivered them in a really loud manner so she always sounded as though she were annoyed at you or that you had done something wrong.
We called her Mama and she looked after me when I was a baby and as a result she did tend to favour me whereas my father's mother looked after my sister. Mama would give me the best pieces of any dish - there was a funny routine where my mother and father would give her the best pieces and then she would take her chopsticks and pass them into my bowl. Like I said, she had a very nice side to her but she had a very strong side to her that may have perhaps been made stronger as she was made a widow by the second world war and had to raise six children on her own.
One time I didn't eat my boiled egg and tomato sauce (it's a thing in Asia!) for breakfast and I found what I hadn't eaten in my zongzi that afternoon and it was a lesson learned. I always finished my breakfast because egg and tomato sauce zongzi is unappetising at best. We always took these ever present zongzi for granted as if they would always be there, but when my grandmother passed away she died without passing on the elaborate folding technique onto my mother. So it was up to me to find out how to make them myself.
Thanks to the owner and chefs at Taste of Shanghai restaurant in World Square who showed me how to make these and passed on their recipe to me too which was very nice of them. They tasted just like Mama's zongzi and between the owner Aaron Mi and the two chefs Li Ming Yue and Li Ding Mei they showed me the way to roll them. I wouldn't say that I was a pro at it but by the time I made my own batch at home and recreated it, they were decent, if not perfect :)
What I learned is how simple the filling is but it also takes a long time to make these. It starts with marinating pork, soaking and boiling bamboo leaves and soaking glutinous rice. The filling is really just a matter of seasoning the rice and pork. Then comes the wrapping and the boiling, the final step taking 5 hours. Yep five hours to boil so a total of 8 hours or so (albeit much of it is inattention).
But it's worth it when you can taste your grandmother's cooking all over again.
So tell me Dear Reader, if there was one dish that you could eat again what would it be? What is the dish that takes the longest to make in your repertoire?
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